Perfumery 101
22 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE MAKING PERFUMES & LAUNCHING YOUR BRAND
WARNING: this is not a frou-frou book filled with frilly nonsense as an attempt to lure you into this industry and buy my courses. I’m known for being a truth-teller. I tell it like it is, and sometimes the reality is harsh. But, like a parent warning a child about danger, you need to know the truth before you step into this world. - MELANIE JANE NIGHTINGALE
Before We Begin
Let's begin with the positive stuff.
This industry has to be one of the most fascinating I've ever encountered. I've met some of the most interesting people along the way and forged lasting friendships with like-minded people. I've done things I never thought possible, and my journey over the last 25 years has taken so many twists and turns. It really is like being on the world's longest roller coaster.
In 1997, when I was waxing armpits and bikini lines, I never thought for a second that one day I would make a perfume for Carlsberg or create perfume workshops for Toyota. It never occurred to me that in the future I would host perfume masterclasses in one of the world's most iconic hotels with participants flying in from around the world to attend for just one day.
To have opportunities to collaborate with Mercedes and Martini was never on the horizon. No day is ever the same, and each day I find new ways to unleash my creativity and connect with people from around the globe.
At the time of writing , I've taught over 5,000 students. I feel truly blessed to do what I love, because not everyone is lucky enough to pursue their dream. But don’t for one second think it was easy. I've cried, had meltdowns and begged people to attend my events in the early days just to get bums on seats. I've lost count of the times I've wanted to give up and stack shelves in a supermarket, so I don't have to think about my next event or launch.
But it's my passion for the industry that keeps me going, it's the love for my students and clients that pushes me forward. Knowing that I'm helping people to follow their dreams is the best feeling in the world and the highs far outweigh the lows.
So, here I am, telling the truth about the things you really need to know, before falling down this fragrant rabbit hole.
#1 KNOW WHAT YOU'RE GETTING INTO
Perfumery isn’t easy, let’s get that straight, and anyone that tells you otherwise isn’t being truthful. If you don’t have passion for perfumery and you don’t love what you do, you will not survive this cut-throat industry so it’s best to get out now and find something else to do with your time and money.
Sounds harsh I know, but it’s the truth. It’s hard making perfumes, it’s hard finding good suppliers, it’s hard sourcing quality materials, it’s hard being patient, it’s hard finding your customer, it’s hard marketing yourself. You’ll need to dig deep to keep going when things get tough, and they will get tough. It’s hard getting it right... BUT, when you get it right, oh boy, the rewards are immeasurable, and it will be that passion for your industry and the love for your craft that will keep you going.
"Know that this journey you’re about to embark upon is akin to being on a rollercoaster, and the thrills will either outweigh the fear and the skid marks, or you’ll want to get off and never go to that fairground again." MELANIE JANE NIGHTINGALE
#2 KNOW THAT IT'S GOING TO COST $$$
When you consider the start-up costs of creating your own perfume brand, there are many variables. Raw materials cost between €50 to €50,000 a kilo and many suppliers have a minimum order quantity of 1-25kg. You can find suppliers that have smaller MOQs, but those materials are going to cost more in the long run if you're buying 10 ml of each one, and you're going to run out quickly.
Don't forget to factor in shipping costs too. How many materials will you need to purchase?
My starter kit, La Petite Parfumerie, has 63 high quality raw materials, and that's just for starters. Depending on how many synthetics you want to use in your fragrance, you'll need a lot more than that.
Then you’ll need the base, which is the alcohol or oil, if you're making perfume oils. The right alcohol is hard to find, and you must use the right oil that doesn’t make your perfume rancid. Jojoba oil or fractionated coconut oil are the best choices for a longer shelf life.
Speculate to accumulate. Perfumery is an incredibly profitable business, but you need to invest in it first.
Don't forget the receptacles to put your perfumes in. You must invest in quality bottles and caps. Sure, you can buy cheap bottles, but will they be defective after a couple of sprays? You don’t need BLING. You can keep it simple, as long as you have quality. How are you going to package those bottles? Will you put them in boxes or aluminium tins or perhaps custom-made bags?
“‘Jus’ or juice is the
industry term for the
neat fragrance blend.”
Spreadsheets are boring but essential. Factor in ALL your costs before you go out and start buying.
The perfumery industry is notorious for the packaging costing more than the ‘jus’ itself. Design is a key aspect too, not just your logo but your packaging.
Then you need labels. You can't just use any old ink and paper from your printer. Will you have traditional stickers, screen printing, engraving or plates? Speaking of design, you’ll need a website to be credible, and so your customers can find you.
Experimenting uses up a lot of material, so you’ll need to make sure you’re diluting your collection to avoid massive waste. Equipment is next. You’ll need perfumery scales, thousands of pipettes, scent strips, stirrers, glass jugs and so on.
#3 DO YOUR RESEARCH
RESEARCH is one of the first things that you should do before investing any money in your business. You need to know that there's a market for your products and a sustainable consumer demand for what you're about to make.
Is the industry growing year on year? What are the projections for growth expected to be? Research current and future trends, so you can be ahead of the game.
Try not to latch onto gimmicks. Fads fade quickly, and you’ll be stuck with something outdated. Make your brand and products current but timeless. Who are your competitors and what do they offer?
FIND YOUR TRIBE. Who is your customer, where are they, and are there enough of them to build a viable business? You might focus on local to begin with, then expand regionally then internationally and globally.
Start small and make sure your customers love what you offer. This is proven from repeat business. Begin with your current contacts, sell your products at local artisan markets, seasonal fetes, events and exhibitions. Gather consumer feedback and improve the things that are not quite right.
Competition is healthy, it keeps you on your toes and means there’s a demand for what you do. What are your competitors doing that you can do better? What are they not doing that you know you can do?
#4 KNOW YOUR NUMBERS
CASH IS KING. As Jo Malone's husband once told her, “If you're not making a profit, you don't have a business.” You must price your goods accordingly and factor in all the things you might think are insignificant at first. It all adds up, and that includes your time.
Perfumes have one of the biggest mark-ups ever, so don’t be shy with your pricing.
The right customer will pay the price if they really want it, as long as price is reflected in the quality.
Who are your competitors and what do they charge? Can you be as competitive, or will you charge more? Justify your reasoning for this and be confident with your decision.
It's easier to reduce prices than it is to increase them, so start on the high side first. This way you'll have wiggle room for offering customer loyalty discounts and rewards. Once you’ve proven your business model works, and makes a profit, you can reinvest money into scaling up, getting into retail outlets or opening your own store.
“If you’re not
making a profit,
you don’t have a
business”
If you enjoyed these excerpts, there's even more to discover. Explore all 22 chapters of this beautifully illustrated eBook. Start reading now and experience the magic for yourself…
The free eBook is a thank you to everyone that’s supported me throughout my career, and for those who have just discovered me. Long may I continue to educate and inspire you all. The book will provide an understanding of the things you need to know before making fragrances and launching a brand. Even if you just want to create scents for yourself, family, and friends, you will find this a valuable guide. I’ve compiled 22 points that will set you off on the right path with your best foot forward. It’s information I wish people would have told me when I first started. So, I hope you learn lots, and the information prevents you from making the mistakes I made! If you want to learn more about perfumery, visit The Naked Perfumer. I’m positive you’ll love it, and you might be interested in some of the other courses I have on offer. Enjoy reading, take care and stay fabulous! - Melanie Jane, FRAG QUEEN.
