THE MYSTERIOUS ALLURE OF OUD
This week we're exploring the mystical world of Oud – a scent that's as enigmatic as it is revered. Often called the 'Liquid Gold' of perfumery, Oud's journey from traditional use to global acclaim is a tale of luxury, culture, and aromatic power.
OUD: A FRAGRANCE STEEPED IN TRADITION
Traditionally, Oud is central to the olfactory heritage of the Middle East, where its deep and complex aroma has been cherished for centuries. Extracted from the resinous heartwood of diseased Aquilaria trees, this rare ingredient is as precious as it is unique.
THE RISE OF OUD IN CONTEMPORARY PERFUMERY
Once a well-kept secret of the Middle East, Oud has now captivated the world. From niche boutiques to mainstream brands, almost every major fragrance house boasts an Oud-based perfume. Its meteoric rise in global popularity is a testament to its unique, captivating aroma.
EXCLUSIVITY AND EXPENSE
The extraction of Oud is a painstaking process, contributing to its exorbitant cost. Authentic Oud, used in its pure form, is a rarity in commercial perfumes due to this high price tag (it's more expensive than gold). When I approached a renowned perfume house, they revealed that only one of their fragrances contained real Oud – a clear indicator of its luxurious exclusivity.
THE DARK SIDE OF OUD
Intriguingly, true Oud is sourced exclusively from trees that have been infected by a specific fungus, a natural process that gives it its unique scent. However, due to its rarity and high demand, there are now practices of artificially infecting trees to harvest Oud. This method aims to replicate the natural aroma, though connoisseurs often note subtle differences.
Watch the fascinating documentary below for a rare insight into this intriguing raw material that is now endangered.
WHO KNEW?
An astonishing, lesser-known fact about Oud is its role in the animal kingdom. The scent of Oud is not just captivating to humans; it's also incredibly attractive to certain animals. In the wild, the fragrance of Oud has been observed to calm aggressive elephants. This unique interaction between the natural scent and wildlife underscores Oud's profound impact beyond the realms of human perception and luxury, hinting at an ancient, instinctual connection between nature and this enigmatic aroma.
SPELLING
You might see it spelled as 'Oud' or 'Oudh' – both refer to the same mesmerizing scent. since it comes from an Arabic word “عود” which means wood. Despite its variations in spelling, the essence remains unmistakably profound.
A POLARIZING SCENT
Oud's scent profile is intensely polarizing; it's a love-it-or-hate-it affair. This divisiveness is often due to its improper use. Remember, with Oud, less is definitely more. Even a single drop can transform a fragrance, adding a depth and complexity that's unparalleled.
CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE AND USAGE
In the Middle East, the tradition of burning Oud wood chips on charcoal is a deeply ingrained practice. The smoke is used to infuse kanduras and abayas, traditional dresses, with its rich, lingering aroma. This ritualistic use speaks volumes about Oud's cultural and olfactory significance.
Digital artwork by Melanie Jane and DALL-E
MY PERSONAL CONNECTION WITH OUD
Having spent 20 years in Dubai, my connection with Oud is personal and profound. I've witnessed its evolution from a regional treasure to a global fragrance phenomenon, a journey that mirrors the dynamic and ever-changing world of perfumery.
Ever since setting foot in the Middle East, my relationship with Oud has been a fascinating dance of love and hesitation. What truly captivates me is the diversity of Oud's character, which varies significantly based on its origin. Each region imparts its own signature to the scent. For example, Indian Oud exudes a distinctly smoky essence, while Cambodian Oud tends to be sweeter and often more agreeable to certain noses. My personal preference swings between these varieties, influenced by my mood and the intended use of the scent. The versatility of Oud never ceases to amaze me.
As you explore the world of fragrances, I encourage you to experience Oud – a scent that's not just a fragrance, but a story, a tradition, and an olfactory adventure. In fact, its scent is so complex you can wear it alone.
Until next Tuesday, may your scent journey be as rich and intriguing as Oud itself.
Fragrantly yours,
“In the world of fragrance, Oud is more than a scent; it’s a bridge between the wild heart of nature and the refined soul of perfumery, resonating with a depth that transcends time and borders.”
